Valleys of Naar and Phu trek

(followed by a trek through Tilicho to Jomosom) - October & November 2009


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Click on thumbnails to enlarge


Day 1 - Besi Sahar or Bhulbhule to Jagat 

This trek starts by following the Annapurna circuit trail. The proper road ends at the town of Besi Sahar but depending on the state of the landslides that occur on the track that leads further north you might be able to drive to Bhulbhule before starting the walk.
The landslide prone (and generally blocked) road that is being built towards Manang stays on the western side of the Marshyangdi river but  the trail starts by following the eastern side.

The start of the traditional Annapurna Circuit is a gentle walk on a good trail through cultivated fields with good views of the Lamjung Himal.

We cross the Marshyangdi river at Ngadi and make a steep climb through terraced fields to the village of Bahundanda (1311m).  We then drop down through a  wide bowl of terraced farmland, eventually approaching the Marshyangdi once again opposite a striking tributary waterfall.

At the village of Syange, we re cross  the river to its west side. Beyond the tea-houses of  this settlement  the  valley closes to a gorge and at one point the path is forced to skirt a rocky buttress by way of a high man-made walk-way. Overnight at Jagat (1314m).



Marshyangdi river and Lamjung Himal


Views of Lamjung Himal









Ascending through rice fields near Bahundanda



Descending back to the Marshyangdi river












Day 2 - Jagat to Dharapani 

After climbing  to Chamje, the  trail descends to  cross the Marshyangdi again at a point where the valley is very narrow.  Climbing steeply again, and passing a number of welcome tea-houses, we finally reach a viewpoint where we can look northwards across a surprising level area of pasture to the houses of Tal, which are dwarfed by the high mountains beyond, including the Kangguru massif.

Tal  is the most southerly of the villages of the Manang district and chortens and prayer flags attest to the Buddhist influence, which is increasingly prevalent from this point onwards. The valley becomes narrow once again and the trail runs high above the river, before descending to cross to the west side of the Marshyangdi, to our overnight halt at Dharapani (1943m) at the confluence of the tributary Dudh Khola.

The Manaslu Circuit route meets the Annapurna Circuit trail at this point.











Day 3 - Dharapani to Koto

The  valley now turns towards the  west, as we pass through the interesting Buddhist village of  Bagar Chap. Trekking westwards now, with Manaslu visible behind us, and Annapurna II occasionally in sight to the West, we pass through several sections of pine forest. You might see grey langur monkeys in the forest.

There are isolated lodges and hamlets as well as logger encampments en route to our overnight stopping place at Koto (2600m).

Koto is where we will leave the Annapurna Circuit and "civilization" so if you need to restock on anything now is your last chance. You can walk on for around 30 minutes to the large village of Chame where there are quite a few shops an even an internet place or two.




Loooking towards Manaslu



Looking towards Manaslu


Looking towards Manaslu



Grey langur


Cannabis plants



Lata Marang


Manaslu Himal at sunset from Koto



Sunrise on Annapurna II


Sunrise on the Lamjung Himal to Annapurna II ridge seen from Koto


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